Saturday, 11 October 2014

The Northwest!






The summit of the Liberty Bell in the North Cascades.  I guided some friends up the very moderate "Becky Route"







Harry following the 10c alternate start to St. Vetus' Dance 







Harry leading the superhero 5.9 pitch of #2,3,4 hand Jams!







The hilarious descent off the Apron.  







Party wall!  Macky leading a 10a pitch on Rock On to Squamish Buttress as we shoot the shit at the belay.







Pre-crux 







View from 2/3rds up the Chief







Some Japanese people on the 10c crux. At least there was a huge comfortable ledge for us to hang out on while we waited for the gong show to ensue.







Harry cruising the 10c Crux of Squamish Buttress







Summit of the Chief 







Far and away the most important part of the day:  Coffee


Touchdown

We have arrived in Madrid, Spain.  Today we obtained our rental car and got acquainted with Madrid city-driving antics and also went to see the Museo del Prado, which was pretty impressive despite our minuscule understanding of European history and Art.  Apparently it is illegal to photograph the art, which is highly disappointing, since some of these pieces are absolutely hilarious.  I was thoroughly chastised by some grumpy old Spanish woman for taking pictures.

Our "Hostel" was extremely nice for $50USD and was right in the non-tourist heart of town, which has been good for our language building.  We have also consumed our fair share of Cafe con Leche, which has also been great.  I will post more comprehensively this weekend after we become situated at our first climbing destination.

I also want to thank my Mom for providing me with some Mexican Pesos for use in the European currency system.  They laughed at me!  Thanks Mom (: 

-Alex

Trip Favorites

Okay.  So finally here is the promised "favorites" post.  This post will include the "best of" our trip in essence and will consist of several categories.  The only criteria of favoritism for each category is unanimity between Amanda and I as to which candidate is ultimately, the favorite. I will provide a brief explanation for each category and what set the winner aside from the rest.

City:

Toledo, Spain

While there are many beautiful and charming cities littered across South-Western Europe, Toledo is the undisputed favorite, as it has most effectively maintained its medieval layout.  It is said that the Toledo skyline has not changed for 500 years and we certainly agree, as there is no city we encountered with the charm, unique lifestyle, and proximity to cool, old stuff.






Medieval Streets of Toledo.  Barely passable by Peugeot.







Alcazar amidst city skyline.
Favorite Rental Car:

Peugeot 207

As much as I'd hate to support a French automobile manufacturer, we unanimously loved the Peugeot.  This car was quick, agile, extremely economical, and fit anything and everything in its well disguised hatchback trunk.  Viva Peugeot!







Mean as Hell.
Favorite Climbing Location:

El Chorro, Spain

Without a doubt, our favorite climbing destination of the trip was the beautiful valley of El Chorro.  The town itself is quite primitive, but the surroundings are magnificent:  A 360 degree panorama of 1000foot, limestone cliffs surrounding a huge, blue lake.  The climbing here was very good and so was the accommodation:  An awesome climber's campground fully equipped with swimming pool, trampoline, living room, kitchen, and walking proximity to most of the areas 20-30 crags.

Favorite Accommodation:

Portuguese Bungalo

Since the El Chorro campground was closely associated with the climbing location than an actual accommodation, it's quite obvious that the 9EUR/person/night bungalo in Portugal was definitely the best bargain.  This included internet access, swimming pool, beachside amenities, and a private indoor shed with refrigerator and dining area.







Not much to look at, but awesome for the price.
Favorite Restaurant:

Random Sit-down, Orvieto

This place had awesome service, a hand written menu, the best Italian food in the entire country, and the ambiance to back it up.  If only I knew the name?

Favorite Photos:

I guess this section isn't quite legitimate, because I didn't really get Amanda's opinion and I really can't bring myself to decide on a favorite.  But here are a few of my favorite shots:







Portugal Beachfront Near Lisboa







Castle In Portugal







Palacio de Pena in Portugal







Random German in Arco







Random German in Arco








Waterway Reflection in Venice







Arco View.


I don't know why I like these particular pictures more than any of the others I captured on the trip, but I do feel the group provides a pretty accurate representation of all the awesome scenes we encountered along the way.








Skywalker Couloir (Snow/AI)

Today I climbed the Skywalker Couloir on South Arapaho.  Overall, this is a great snow-climb that provides a great alternative to the S. Arapaho summit access trail.  The climb today provided extremely firm moderate to steep snow climbing as well as some bits of alpine ice (no greater than AI2).  Despite our 4AM departure and 7 hour push, we had a great time.


See photos below!



Alex










Above the first easy mixed bit, looking up the col.






Looking back down at Amanda and the valley below













My first ice screw anchor.  This thing was bomber (I think?)






The suspended rope gives good detail regarding the steepness of the upper portion of this col.






Amanda looking back down at the direct finish.  Glad we took the "escape" route.






Our line followed the snow up and to the left, into some nice (and easy) mixed climbing







Hanging out by the creek after out successful climb!


San Pedro/Socaire Canyon

We made the arduous drive from La Serena to San Pedro over the course of three days, with a quick intermission at Bahria Ingles, which is a bit of a beachtown.  The car broke down again in the middle of the night, roughly 200km in either direction any help other than the ever-friendly Chilean Copec gas station.  We awoke in the morning (see below) and some truck drivers kindly argued in spanish, disassembled half our engine and magically fixed whatever was keeping our vehicle from operating.  We spent two nights in San Pedro then made our way to the high altitude climbing in Socaire Canyon.







Our car broke down in the middle of the desert, so we camped here.  This weird shack was was rougly 300m from the Copec gas station.  Otherwise nothing in either direction for 200k.  The following morning some truck drivers did some magic with the car and it ran magnificently again.







Some salt on our way into San Pedro, Chile.  The car could barely muster 40km.hr at this point due to the altitude (not fuel injected)







The lovely town of Socaire, 3500m in elevation.







Where we parked the car to climb in Socaire Canyon, 3700m in elevation







The campsite and the climbing.







At one of the high altitude laguna's near the climbing. 13,500ft.







After our brief drive (car died) and subsequently hitchike into the Flamenco national park to see the laguna 






The car's resting spot.  We were able to get it started going downhill.







Another of the high altitude laguna.







Back to the car, hoping we can start it.







Eric climbing in Socaire canyon







Another of Eric climbing in the canyon.


Rock and Ice Photo Contest

If you enjoy my site, please follow the links below and vote on the photos I have submitted to the Rock and Ice Photo Camp Contest (only if you like them, of course):

Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 3

Thanks so much,

Al

October to April: A 6 Month Photo Timeline






BA







Steph, Yulie, and I







Epic version of Dan







Dan







Frey at sunset







The Fitzroy Massif







Some psuedo John Fielder







Mike Making his way up after the mixed step towards the base of the route.







Sunrise on the Torres.







Our Argentine friend on the final snowfield of Guillaumet.







Our Spanish Friend very glad (and reckless) 







Rappel Rappel Rappel...







The big fitz.







Trekking in the Cerro Castillo area.










Dances with wild horses?  Doesn't seem as dangerous as wolves.







Ten minutes into our first drive in the car... Flat tire.







Broken...







The car is broken!







The Car works! (sorta!)







Auto Mechanic 







La Serena Camp







Hitch hiking..albeit ineffective.







A little inclement weather review of our knowledge of rescue systems.







Eric on top of Alto.







Refugio antics.  Empanada manufacturing and card playing.







Camp in Arenales, one fine snowy morning.







Seth Climbing..









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